First you have to know about energy, waves and forces.
The first law is about energy conservation = Energy can not be created or destroyed. Energy doesn’t stop moving and it travels usually to places with less energy. Energy can change forms.
Why do you have to paddle to catch the wave?
If you want to catch a wave …you have to paddle almost as fast as it is going. The waves travels with kinetic energy as momentum and in order to have the wave accelerate you a little faster you have to also have kinetic energy or momentum similar to the wave.
Momentum also depends on mass. The heavier the surfer the bigger the wave must be. A bigger wave has more kinetic energy to transfer to the surfer to push them forward.
Surfboards are designed to “surf” the wave. The front is curved to let the water to travel below the surfboard faster than above and cuts down water resistance. This lets the surfboard have lift and ride the wave.
You also need A LOT of balance and fitness to be a good surfer….but that’s for another lesson.
I DID IT!!!!!
A fun family day. THANKS Mike for teaching us.