First you have to know about energy, waves and forces.
The first law is about energy conservation = Energy can not be created or destroyed. Energy doesn’t stop moving and it travels usually to places with less energy. Energy can change forms.
Why do you have to paddle to catch the wave?
If you want to catch a wave …you have to paddle almost as fast as it is going. The waves travels with kinetic energy as momentum and in order to have the wave accelerate you a little faster you have to also have kinetic energy or momentum similar to the wave.
Momentum also depends on mass. The heavier the surfer the bigger the wave must be. A bigger wave has more kinetic energy to transfer to the surfer to push them forward.
Surfboards are designed to “surf” the wave. The front is curved to let the water to travel below the surfboard faster than above and cuts down water resistance. This lets the surfboard have lift and ride the wave.
You also need A LOT of balance and fitness to be a good surfer….but that’s for another lesson.
I DID IT!!!!!
A fun family day. THANKS Mike for teaching us.
Hey
He’s an engineer, and that’s not a theory eh!
Proud moments captured for sure for Wilson and all.
Are you stopping at the Big Island?
Coop
Wilson, thanks for the blog on surfing – very interesting. I did try surfing once, but I couldn’t master the standing up. You did really well.
Haha I cannot imagine you doing it from Wilson
Awesome lesson! A-PLUS to Wilson.
Thanks I appreciate the a+
From Wilson
Wilson this is a great explanation. Your diagrams were helpful. Congratulations on riding the waves. I bet you were tired and hungry after all that activity. Good photos too. Enjoy the adventures and keep writing. We miss you. Big hugs, Grandma and grandpa.?
Thanks bigger hags ???
From Wilson
Good job Wilson explaining how surfing works. We liked your pictures. Congratulations on riding the waves. Hope you have lots more fun on your trip.
Thanks I appreciate you sending me your comments surfing xoxo Wilson
Hi Wilson, nice post about the energy. I will examine this ‘Energy doesn’t stop moving and it travels usually to places with less energy’ in my aikido practice!
Thanks for the comment sorry I couldn’t get to you sooner
From Wilson
Wilson you are fantastic and I loved your science drawings …and learned a lot!
Merci beaucoup
Joyeuses Fêtes
Thanks I here you have learned a lot
Hi Wilson! This is so cool! It’s pretty awesome that you were able to learn from the experience. Also that must have been really amazing to try surfing. Merry Christmas and we hope that you’re all having a great time traveling around the world. (We heard you went rock climbing too, nice job!)